Christchurch

On Saturday morning we left the Marae and headed into Christchurch for our time off. We were dropped off at the hostel we were staying in and then had free time to roam the city until the rugby game started! So we decided to walk around Cathedral Square, which is basically the center of town. After we explored, we found a nice strip of restaurants with outdoor patios, so we sat and had some appetizers and drinks. On our way back to the hostel from the restaurant, we passed by a huge thrift store so we decided to go in and check it out. About 30 minutes later we all walked out with rugby polos to wear to the game.





Watching the game was so much fun because we got to meet a lot of Kiwi's who were sitting around us, and got to enjoy the camaraderie of a big sports arena. Everyone is outside enjoying the beautiful weather watching their favorite sports team play. It was nice to be in a city setting after being in rural areas for so long. After the game was over one of the women that was sitting near us told us if we stuck around the players would come by and sign rugby balls. So of course I was in and waited for Isac, one of the Christchurch Crusaders to come over to our end of the field. Riley and I worked our way through the crowd and got him to sign my rugby shirt (soo cool!!) and I got a picture with him because I said it was my birthday!

(picture to come!)





After the game we walked back to the hostel to meet up with everyone who didn't go. Then we all went out as a big troupe and hit the town the celebrate my birthday. It was a little frustrating because we got separated pretty quickly, and I wanted everyone to be together to celebrate. But after we cleared some confusion we all met up at Fat Eddie's where this main with an insanely long white beard was doing Billy Joel covers. He was so entertaining while he was playing, but we only caught him for about 10 minutes. Afterwards a lot of people were tired so they went back, but some of us headed to a bar called His Lordships. The only reason we went because a live band called The Wolverines were playing and we liked their name. However, we were in for a big treat when they ended up being a really cool cover band with a guy who opened for them that could beat box like I've never heard. He actually was probably the most talented person I've ever seen, it was insane. But after a while we all decided we were tired and headed back to the hostel to go to bed.



The next morning we woke up and decided to walk around the city some more. We went into a more historical district where we found this really cool market that we ended up spending so much time in. After we had spent enough money we walked into the botanical gardens which were beautiful. We explored the fountains, flowers, and the famous Avon River. Once we were finished we got lunch at this very cool cafeteria/restaurant called Dux de Lux. We spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing around the square in the city and in the hostel. That night we decided to go out to Mexican for dinner, which was delicious. We went back to His Lordships after dinner so everyone else could see the bar, then just headed back to the hostel.

Brenna, Me, Emily and Kara in front of the Botanical Garden fountain

Punting on the Avon River

Monday morning we got up and had breakfast, then walked around and went to a couple more shops for the last time. After we got all of our stuff back together, we met the teachers in the parking lot of our hostel and headed off to Craigieburn.

South Island--Kaikoura

Hello once again!!

After a long three week journey around the south island, were finally back back on campus. Writing updates on this blog is such a daunting task because there are so many amazing details, but I will try to do my best. In a short summary, traveling around the south island has made me truly fall in love with New Zealand. It has a kind of beauty and relaxed attitude that the north island doesn't possess. And with these next few blog posts I will try to explain why...

We loaded up the vans Monday morning to prepare for our van ride down the entire north island. The ride should have taken us about 8 hours, but because we stopped to much to look at the scenery and go pee, it took us about 11. We stopped for the night in Wellington, and I was lucky enough to see my friend who lives in Wellington. We worked together this past summer in St. Martin, so it was really nice to see him and have him show me around the city. Wellington is a very cool place and I'm excited to spend some more time there traveling after the program. We woke up obscenely early the next morning to board the InterIslander, this HUGE ship that crosses between the two islands. After the 3 hour journey, we got back into our vans and drove along the east coast of the south island to Kaikoura. This town is really well known in New Zealand for its marine mammals; there are so many whales, dolphins, and fur seals that live in the coastal waters the town has become a pretty big tourist attraction. While we stayed there we were very lucky to have the opportunity to stay on the local Marae. The gardens around the buildings were so beautiful, and they had very tall wooden 'ancestor' sculptures that surrounded the buildings also. I wish I could show you pictures, but it is not acceptable in Maori tradition to take pictures. (By the end of our trip we thought this was kind of cool because now the memory only exists in our memories and can't fully be shared with anyone else). The room we actually slept in was the Wharanui, the room of the ancestors. When we first got there we sat in a circle and all explained where we came from and what our family histories were, which was really cool to describe while standing in a room that was built for the remembrance of ancestors. All of the walls and ceiling are covered in beautiful carved panels that are specific to this sector of Maori people; it was an amazing and peaceful thing to fall asleep to.

The view of the mountains from the Marae

We spent our time in Kaikoura learning about the marine mammals and shorebirds that live in the Kaikoura waters and shores. Also, we learned about the many different tourism sectors that take advantage of the presence of these animals. After learning about all the different companies, and different levels of certification they can achieve for being eco-friendly, we found out we were going to go swimming with dolphins! So we all woke up at about 5 am on Thursday morning and headed into Kaikoura to get fitted for wetsuits and head out on the boat. After about 30 minutes on the boat we came across a pod of about 200 dusky dolphins. We split into 2 groups and consecutively jumped into the freezing water to swim with dolphins. It was such a cool experience because we got to see them in the wild and it was clear they were entertained and liked playing with us. We were told we couldn't touch them, but so many of them got so close to me I swore they wanted to touch me. But it was really cool to be so close and look them in the eyes.

The next day was my 21st birthday!! Friday the 13, how appropriate, haha. We had a regular day of classes and got to walk around the peninsula Kaikoura is on to look at the different geological formations, which was really cool. During some of our time off, Brenna and I went into town to enjoy a first official drink as a 21 year old...a sharkbite!

That night I did get a very beautiful/delicious chocolate cake as well as some candy and cards from some of my good friends. That night, as a tradition when leaving a Marae, we had a talent show. This requires everyone to get up and share a talent or something that is important to them with the rest of the group. I ended up making up some riddles and challenging everyone to my favorite riddle. Afterwards, we all got to say a couple of words expressing our appreciation for being able to stay at the Marae. Overall, it was a really great experience staying there and also being able to see Kaikoura. As most of you know I love the ocean and all the organisms that live in it, so I really appreciated learning about New Zealand specific waters and getting to see them up close. Plus, it was such a beautiful place to spend 4 days.

Whangarei

So this blog is going to be a little short, but I wanted to complete my series of three before we left for the south island...

So Friday after we finished our day of snorkeling on Friday, we drove back into Whangarei which is the closest, largest town to the Poor Knights. We drove around the city looking for our hostel, finally drove up a HUGE hill to get there, and got settled in. After we were all organized we went into the town to get some pizza. Throughout this entire semester everyone has been craving pizza...so we all decided to splurge.

All of us at our pizza dinner!

After dinner we went to the one bar we had been hearing so much about...Danger Danger. Let me tell you, this was one of the funniest bars I've ever walked into. It had a cowboy/western theme with the huge wooden tables, but then a dance floor with cages and stripper poles. It was quite the experience. Also, the only reason they let us in was because we came so early, we were clearly out of dress code. Because none of us had anything to wear we were in shorts and tee-shirts, but I guess you had to be in heels/dresses to be considered acceptable. We have now encountered a dress code problem twice...

After the club we all went back to the hostel and went to bed. The next morning we went out to breakfast and a bunch of people left to go camping and hiking in a Kauri forest. I stayed because Jesse and I had made plans to go SCUBA diving on Sunday at the Poor Knights. So Saturday we spent wandering the town, going into gift shops, used book stores, and camping stores. Those of us that stayed decided we were going to make dinner at the hostel that night, so we went to the grocery store and prepared our chicken breast, grilled veggie, and pasta dinner. Afterwards we spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing and reading. Cooking dinner was actually really fun, except the stove couldn't get hot enough to boil all the water we needed for the pasta, so we served it a la dent. Once we finished dinner we all decided to go into town and see a movie. Emily, Katie and I decided to go see He's Just Not That Into You. Definitely a good movie...although slightly overwhelming. (not sure if thats just the movie...or the fact I've been removed from American culture for 6 weeks). But it was really nice to go see a movie, and I think its fun to explore what movie theaters are like in different countries.

It was good we had a relaxing evening because Jesse and I woke up at about 6:15 to eat breakfast and get ready for our day of SCUBA diving!! We weren't sure if it was going to happen because the predicted weather for the weekend was pretty bad, but luckily it all worked out! By the time we got back to Poor Knights it was probably already 10 o'clock and we had a really hard time finding a protected area to do our first dive. While the weather wasn't that bad, the currents around the islands were really strong. So eventually we come to this area, where every other dive company is trying to dive also, and gear up for our first dive. There were only 4 of us diving, Jesse and me, and two Japanese girls, plus the dive leader. Even though the numbers were small, this turned out to be one of the most hectic dives I've ever been on. One of the Japanese girls knew what she was doing, but her friend had just been certified days before, and basically had no idea what she was doing. She couldn't figure out how to get herself down, so once the instructor helped her, she was just sitting at the bottom. It was like she forgot that she had to swim in order to dive...so the entire dive she was pulled by the leader, she wasn't even kicking her legs. So this incident alone made the dive a little crazy, but minus that the views were amazing. We saw so many different species of fish, a HUGE moray eel, and probably 5 eagle rays. After we finished we came back on the boat and went to a new dive site. Once the Japanese girls came out of the water, they both kind of gave up...they took off all their gear and just slept of the front of the boat. So the next dive was just Jesse, me and the leader which was soooo much better. This dive was really cool because we went through little underwater passages and caves. Again we saw so many different species of fish, really cool sea slugs (they don't actually look like slugs) and an enormous eagle ray, it was probably 6 feet across. While slightly scary, it was amazing.

After we got back into Whangarei, an hour later then we were supposed to, we met up with the others that stayed and started our drive home. It was definitely an exhausting, but very rewarding day. I'm so happy we got the chance to dive at Poor Knights because its acclaimed as one of the top 10 dive sites in the world.

So thats my final story for this past weekend...this week has just been filled with studying and paper writing, nothing to exciting. But in about an hour and a half we are leaving to start our south island adventure!! I'll try and keep notes while I'm there so I remember to update on everything, but I will be out of email/internet contact for the next three weeks. So I hope everyone has a good couple of weeks, and I will update soon! Miss you all!!

HAPPY BELATED BIRTHDAY DAD!!! love you!

Leigh and the Poor Knights

Lots of people have been asking for my address and I figured it would be easier to just post it here:

Elizabeth Koury

c/- EcoQuest

1204 East Coast Road

RD 3, Pokeno, 2473

New Zealand

I can get mail through any carrier, you just have to make sure there's enough postage on it.

On to the travels...on Monday morning we left bright and early to head up to Leigh, which is a city in Northland. It took us probably around 3 hours to get there, plus stopping on the way to get fitted for wetsuits and snorkel gear. Once in Leigh we found out where we were staying which was the University of Auckland's Marine Lab. The lab itself is pretty nice, but it is right on the coast of the Goat Island Marine Reserve which is BEAUTIFUL. It was the first marine reserve to be established in New Zealand, which means there has been no fishing allowed there since the 1970's.

Goat Island and the Marine Lab

The coast of Goat Island Marine Reserve

After we got situated in our rooms, we all divided into groups and did our first snorkel of the marine reserve. As soon as you get in the water you are inundated with these huge, curious fish, who are by no means intimidated by people. The most prevalent species was the snapper, which was really good to see because its such an economically viable fish. Their populations in this area are still under recovery, but definitely improving. We also went snorkeling in one of the caves in Goat Island which was so cool.

The next day we woke up and went to a lecture by Bill Ballantine. He's a really famous ecologist in New Zealand because he has advocated marine reserves from the beginning. He talked about why he thought they were important and the major problems he faces trying to get them implemented. He was also quite a character...throughout the entire lecture he was rolling and smoking his own cigarettes! Very different from any scientist I've met! In the afternoon we started our research assignment, which was locating and counting Kina, an endemic sea urchin. We went around the marine reserve and picked 16 different spots, 8 of which were kelp forest, 8 of which were bare rock, and counted all the kina we could see in a measured quadrant. After we finished we came back to the lab and got a tour of all the different projects from one of the doctorate students. Then we enjoyed dinner and went to bed.


The third day we started by going to Matheson Bay, where we continued our research assignment. We repeated our Kina counting procedure and then compared the data between the two sites. As we suspected Matheson Bay had significantly more Kina because it wasn't a marine reserve (Snapper eat Kina, which help control their population). After lunch, we had a lecture from Dr. Roger Grace who is another very famous marine scientist. We learned more about the benefits of marine reserves and also about all the various habitats and species that exist throughout New Zealand's marine environment.


On our last day we spent a lot of time cleaning up the lab and then giving oral presentations. This time it was my turn, so I had to speak for 10 minutes about the Quota Management System and Individual Transferable Quotas. I'll spare you all the nitty gritty but I think it went really well! Plus I enjoyed doing the research, which is always a good thing. After the 4 presentations we packed up the vans and headed to Tutukaka and Poor Knights, which is another marine reserve about 2 hours further north.


We arrived in Tutukaka at about 4 o'clock and got settled into the cabins we were staying in. Then Jesse, the only other person who is certified in SCUBA, walked over to the marina to figure out if we could plan diving for that weekend. After calling a bunch of different companies we made tentative plans because the weather was supposed to be really bad. We then walked back to our camp, ate dinner, and celebrated Cori's birthday. At about 7:15 we all met up and walked back to the marina to hear Wade Doak speak. If your at all into SCUBA diving this name would ring a bell, he was one of the people who helped invent current SCUBA gear, and was actually famous for finding a sunken ships treasure. (I wouldn't have believed this, but he actually brought some to show). Then he went on to show us one of the 18 movies he's made about the species at the Poor Knights. It was really helpful to learn some of the species names and where we would find them. After the viewing we all went back to our cabins and went to bed.


Friday morning we all woke up bright and early to get ready for snorkeling at the Poor Knights. We walked over to the marina, got on a big SCUBA boat, and made the hour long ride over to the islands. It was AMAZING once we got there, the islands and their waters are completely untouched.






We went snorkeling at 3 different sites, all of which were cool in their own ways. The first sight had so many different types of fish, and a sandbar with about 8 eagle rays. After getting over the awe of so many fish, we went snorkeling through a cave which was amazing. It was really cool to hear the sounds of the ocean in a cave, and to be able to look out on the water which was a perfect shade of blue in the sunlight. The second spot was a Blue MaoMao arch. We would swim under the arch and it was just thousands of these fish. They were really spectacular all together because when the light hits them at a certain angle they all shimmer. After we left the arch we went swimming throughout all these thin openings that took us to interior areas of the islands. This spot was definitely my favorite. The last place was the worlds largest natural sea cave. We drove the boat into the cave, then the captain blew into a conch shell because the acoustics are on par with the Sydney Opera House. Afterwards we got into the water and explored. Overall, it was a phenomenal trip and my favorite day in New Zealand.


After we got back onto land, our weekend off started. And that is to be continued...

Shellfish and Auckland

So this is going to be the beginning of 3 separate blogs to cover what I've been doing for the last week and a half. Basically, we spent the last week in Northland without any internet or phone, so I couldn't do any updating. This first blog is about the activities of last weekend (starting Feb. 20th).

On Friday, as a part of our field research, we had to do a shellfish survey in a harbor that was about an hour away. As we woke up to get ready, we were greeted by 40 knot winds and torrential downpour. After talking to the teachers, we decided we were going to go through with the survey despite the weather. So we all loaded into the vans and experienced one of the most nauseating car rides ever. Everyone, even people that don't get carsick, were feeling it by the end of this trip. Once we got out there, we were quickly briefed on our assignment and what we were supposed to do. Then we headed out to our different stations to begin our surveys. I was in a group with Brenna and Kara, we were team three and named ourselves Triple Threat. We had the second furthest point to walk to, so we spent about 15 minutes being pelted by rain, walking in 3 inches of water, out to our station. Once we got there we had to dig up a small squares worth of sediment, then siphon through it to figure out how many shellfish we had collected. The problem was it was really difficult to tell which ones were alive and which were dead, so the process actually took a while. After we finished the first point, we moved inshore and did 3 more. While this may sound tedious or annoying, we actually had such a good time. We were instantly soaked, which we just accepted, and then began to enjoy. We were singing and dancing in the rain, and just making the best out of the weather. It was amazing. This is a picture of T-Threat after we came back:

Kara, Me and Brenna completely soaked

After we got back from the survey, we had a quick debrief and then started our weekend off. It was Brenna's 22nd birthday on Thursday, so we decided to go to the local pub Friday night. After everyone dried off, ate dinner, and put on clean clothes we headed to the pub. In hopes of good weather, I didn't bring a raincoat, and then obviously got rained on during the 25 minute walk. I was also wearing flip flops with really bad traction, so I ended up slipping and slicing my toe also. Once we got to the pub, I cleaned up my toe and we all started playing pool. Let me tell you, it is quite difficult in NZ because all the balls are probably half the size that they are in the States. After hanging out for a while, we decided to walk home to rest up for our trip to Auckland the next day.

At about 10am Saturday morning, we took a 45 minute van ride to get to the train station that would take us into Auckland. Once we arrived we checked into our hostel and then split into smaller groups. I was with a bunch of girls that all decided to go shopping and just kind of wander the city. It definitely isn't like any American city I've seen...I think Toronto is probably the best comparison I can make. After some more shopping, and getting sushi for lunch, it was time for Abby and me to go find David. After a huge debacle in his hostel trying to figure out where he was, we found him in the lobby. We then walked back to our hostel to meet up with everyone from EQ and get dinner. We walked down to the Viaduct Harbour and ate in this really cute restaurant.

Me, David and Abby in front of the harbour

Me, Riley and John in the restaurant

After dinner we did some bar hopping around the city. The first place we went had live music, which was what drew us there. However, after listening to the singer for 5 minutes, we couldn't stand being in the bar any longer. So we basically ran out of that bar, and headed to another one that we had noted earlier in the day. This bar also had a band, but they were a cover band singing classic American music which we all loved. Also, we started chatting up this bartender who ended up being from Detroit...how random! All the Michigan girls started freaking out, so we started talking about restaurants and bars in Ann Arbor.

A bunch of us with Adam, the bartender from Detroit

We then decided we wanted to go to a club, so we started walking around trying to find a place that looked fun. This was when we realized we were severely under dressed. It was like the city underwent a transformation, because suddenly the streets were filled with girls in 4 inch heels and little black dresses, and all the guys were dressed in pants and nice shirts. This was when we first realized that Auckland nightlife had a strict dress code. We decided that we would roll with it and try and get into a club anyways. At the first club we were immediately declined because we were all wearing flip flops. We then decided we had to re-evaluate. This ended with David and our friend John going back to the bar we had come from, and the girls trying to get into the club again. This time, we walked right through and the bouncer didn't say a thing. That was where we spent the rest night dancing to late 90's music, because thats what NZ thinks is popular.

The next morning we rode the train back out of Auckland, met up with the van and drove home. We all were reminded of the lingering work we had to do, which is what everyone spent the rest of Sunday and Monday morning completing. Then, by 9am Monday, we were off in the vans heading to Northland.